This is a great article written by Justin W. Moore, that I found that definitely needs to be included on this site.

Water is life. The existence of nearly everything living is critically linked to its availability. In and near the streams, rivers and oceans of our world, Nature thrives. It is no surprise that such a powerful force in Nature is so often depicted by the outdoor photographer. This tutorial provides basic tips that will help you capture the beauty of water in your photographs.

Use Slow Shutter Speeds

Slow shutter speeds create a soft, artistic portrait of water. Generally, shutter speeds that are 1/6 of a second and slower will yield the best results. A majority of my waterfall photographs fall between 1/4 second and 3 seconds of exposure. The key here is to dare to experiment and not be afraid to shoot a lot of film or frames. You never know what shutter speed is going to render the waterfall the way you see it in your mind’s eye. Needless to say, you will need your tripod when making these long exposures. It’s just one more reason to save your money and buy a good quality, full-featured tripod!

Watch Your Exposure

Why? Because waterfalls usually reflect a lot of light that is going to fool your camera’s built-in exposure meter unless you compensate. I usually find that spot metering off of something neutral in the same area (and thus in the same light) works best; rocks, tree trunks and grass are usually good candidates. To learn more about properly exposing your photographs, see my tutorial Commanding Exposure.

Arm Yourself with Some Useful Tools

Your camera equipment should include a circular polarizer and/or a neutral density filter. A polarizer can increase the overall color saturation in the scene as well as decrease your shutter speeds by 1.5 to 2 stops (a good thing if you find yourself battling a rising sun with an overall increase in lighting). Slowly rotate the polarizer to witness the effect it is having on your scene. Depending on the lighting conditions and your position relative to the sun, you may or may not decide to use it. A neutral density filter can also be used to reduce light input by up to 2 stops in most cases (depending on the strength of the filter).

Use a Slow Speed Film / Low ISO Setting

Using a slow speed film or low ISO setting (ISO 25 to ISO 100) on your digital camera will enable you to photograph waterfalls with a variety of long exposures. Slow speed films like Kodak’s Royal Gold 25 or Fuji’s Velvia will also reward you with incredibly fine grain and outstanding color saturation.

Take a Deep Breath

Don’t let the sheer beauty of the scene get you so excited that you forget everything else I’ve mentioned and come home with a roll or two of underexposed disappointments. Believe me, I’ve been there! Being close to something so beautiful and grand can sometimes lead to temporary lapses of good photographic judgement. Think about every exposure. Bracket your shots and don’t fall prey to mindless “machine gun” shutter clicks.

Use of a circular polarizer can allow you to attain a slow shutter speed for scenes such as this one of Pedernales Falls. A polarizer also removes most of the glare from the scene.
Kodak Gold 100 exposed for 1 second

This type of shot is actually pretty simple to achieve for the beginning photographer. Just follow the steps below to create this close-up shot with a dramatic black background and lots of detail and depth.

1. If you want a solid background behind a flower, you have to put one ther. The background is about 4 feet behind the flower.

2. If you want beautiful flowers to shoot, buy them at a local florist. If the florist knows you’re buying them to photograph them, they will usually make sure you get really beautiful selections.

3. This is taken with a macro lens, and to get this much depth of field you have to follow all three macro rules, including shooting at the highest aperture possible (f/22), shooting on a tripos, and shooting with the barrel of the lens aiming straight at the subject.

4. The light is nothing but beautiful, late afternoon, summer light. No reflectors, no flash, just natural light. So it’s not direct light.

5. What makes this shot interesting is that you’re showing a view of a daisy that is rarely seen, the underside of the back of the flower. To get this view, it may be helpful to place the vase on a tall side table, so that you can get the camera low enough to be below the back of the flower.

I hope these tips are helpful, you can also check out this article on macro photography tips.

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The purpose of this article is to discuss a variety of filters that can be very helpful in getting great shots! There are a lot of filters out there, but I am just going to focus on the basic filters that I recommend everyone to use.The first filter you have to buy is the skylight(or UV) filter. It serves a couple of purposes. One, it protects your lens from scratches and anything that might hit it. It is better to replace a filter for a few dollars then replace a whole lens, which can be expensive! Secondly, it will absorb ultra-violet rays and blue rays, thus your picture won’t be looking to ‘bluish’, especially with your outdoor pictures taken in the shade. This is the filter you keep on your lens at all times. I only take it off when I want to use another filter.

The second filter that you should get is the circular polarizer. This is a fun filter to have as it has a variety of uses. 1) It will darken the sky into a more rich blue and increase the color saturation of the scenery. 2) You can control how much reflection is coming off a window or a body of water and 3) you create a nice contrast in your b&w images. You control how much an effect the filter has by rotating the filter to the desired effect.

The two filters I just mentioned are the two most important to have if you only want a few filters or are on a budget. The rest of the filters(below) are for the artistry and fun of photography, and can be invaluable to the artistic photographs, but not a matter of life and death to have.

Medium Yellow (Y 2) This will absorb ultra-violet and blue rays and will give you a nice strong contrast in b&w photos. This is highly recommended for scenery photos where there is a lot of distance in the background.

Medium Orange ( YA 2) This will absorb the violet, blue and green rays and will give you a stronger contrast in your b&w photos then the yellow filter. Also great for sunsets, see the photos attached to this article for an example.

Medium Red (R 2) This is one of my favorites!! This will absorb the violet, blue, green and yellow rays. This is used for infrared photography and also has the strongest contrast of the other filters for b&w, it is very dramatic and would make what would be an ordinary b&w photo into art.

Multi-image This is fun to play with as you create multi images of the subject. There are a lot of different kinds out there, so look around and find which one you like the most.

Close up Filters This is where you can get really close to your subjects, like a flower, insect, coin, etc. They normally come in a set of 3 filters, a +1, +2 and either a +3 or a +4. And they are cheap! You can also use more then one on your lens to get even closer. They recommend that you don’t use more then 3, but I have used 5 filters stacked together, of course I was also using a ringflash.

Cross Screen This filter will add flares to any light source. For example street lights in a night scenery. Or the sun. It normally comes in three varieties, a 4x, a 6x and 8x.

The above mentioned filters, I have and recommend to anyone that wants to have a little fun with their photography. The above are also not expensive, and if you go to a used camera shop or eBay you can pick them up for a few bucks each. There are other filters out there but I highlighted these because every photographer (amateur or professional) should have them in their camera bag.