Archive for the ‘Macro Photography Tips’ Category

Beginning Photography Tips: Macro Photography

This type of shot is actually pretty simple to achieve for the beginning photographer. Just follow the steps below to create this close-up shot with a dramatic black background and lots of detail and depth.

1. If you want a solid background behind a flower, you have to put one ther. The background is about 4 feet behind the flower.

2. If you want beautiful flowers to shoot, buy them at a local florist. If the florist knows you’re buying them to photograph them, they will usually make sure you get really beautiful selections.

3. This is taken with a macro lens, and to get this much depth of field you have to follow all three macro rules, including shooting at the highest aperture possible (f/22), shooting on a tripos, and shooting with the barrel of the lens aiming straight at the subject.

4. The light is nothing but beautiful, late afternoon, summer light. No reflectors, no flash, just natural light. So it’s not direct light.

5. What makes this shot interesting is that you’re showing a view of a daisy that is rarely seen, the underside of the back of the flower. To get this view, it may be helpful to place the vase on a tall side table, so that you can get the camera low enough to be below the back of the flower.

I hope these tips are helpful, you can also check out this article on macro photography tips.

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Beginning Photography Tips: The Use of Basic Filters

The purpose of this article is to discuss a variety of filters that can be very helpful in getting great shots! There are a lot of filters out there, but I am just going to focus on the basic filters that I recommend everyone to use.The first filter you have to buy is the skylight(or UV) filter. It serves a couple of purposes. One, it protects your lens from scratches and anything that might hit it. It is better to replace a filter for a few dollars then replace a whole lens, which can be expensive! Secondly, it will absorb ultra-violet rays and blue rays, thus your picture won’t be looking to ‘bluish’, especially with your outdoor pictures taken in the shade. This is the filter you keep on your lens at all times. I only take it off when I want to use another filter.

The second filter that you should get is the circular polarizer. This is a fun filter to have as it has a variety of uses. 1) It will darken the sky into a more rich blue and increase the color saturation of the scenery. 2) You can control how much reflection is coming off a window or a body of water and 3) you create a nice contrast in your b&w images. You control how much an effect the filter has by rotating the filter to the desired effect.

The two filters I just mentioned are the two most important to have if you only want a few filters or are on a budget. The rest of the filters(below) are for the artistry and fun of photography, and can be invaluable to the artistic photographs, but not a matter of life and death to have.

Medium Yellow (Y 2) This will absorb ultra-violet and blue rays and will give you a nice strong contrast in b&w photos. This is highly recommended for scenery photos where there is a lot of distance in the background.

Medium Orange ( YA 2) This will absorb the violet, blue and green rays and will give you a stronger contrast in your b&w photos then the yellow filter. Also great for sunsets, see the photos attached to this article for an example.

Medium Red (R 2) This is one of my favorites!! This will absorb the violet, blue, green and yellow rays. This is used for infrared photography and also has the strongest contrast of the other filters for b&w, it is very dramatic and would make what would be an ordinary b&w photo into art.

Multi-image This is fun to play with as you create multi images of the subject. There are a lot of different kinds out there, so look around and find which one you like the most.

Close up Filters This is where you can get really close to your subjects, like a flower, insect, coin, etc. They normally come in a set of 3 filters, a +1, +2 and either a +3 or a +4. And they are cheap! You can also use more then one on your lens to get even closer. They recommend that you don’t use more then 3, but I have used 5 filters stacked together, of course I was also using a ringflash.

Cross Screen This filter will add flares to any light source. For example street lights in a night scenery. Or the sun. It normally comes in three varieties, a 4x, a 6x and 8x.

The above mentioned filters, I have and recommend to anyone that wants to have a little fun with their photography. The above are also not expensive, and if you go to a used camera shop or eBay you can pick them up for a few bucks each. There are other filters out there but I highlighted these because every photographer (amateur or professional) should have them in their camera bag.

Posted in Beginning Photography Tips, Black and White Photography Tips, Landscape Photography Tips, Macro Photography Tips, Nature Photography Tips, Winter Photography Tips | No Comments »

Simple Tips for Macro Photography

Simple Guide to Macro Photography

This is a quick tutorial to get you started with high speed photography. It includes great beginning photography tips for those wanting to learn more about macro photography. There are tons of other resources on the web, but most of them are advanced and require special equipment.

This tutorial focuses on macro water droplet photographs, but you could apply the techniques to any macro high speed photography. To get the effects that are shown in this tutorial, you’ll need an SLR camera (such as a Canon Digital Rebel), an external flash (check out my article on SLR cameras), and a lens with moderate macro capabilities. The kit 18-55 EFS lens should get you started but a real macro lens works a lot better. A tripod is very useful but is not essential.

Settings: The settings for the flash can be confusing. Setting the Flash on ETTL and Camera on P will work, but is limiting, so i’ll discuss a more flexible way to do it. I suggest setting the Flash to Manual Mode and setting the power to its lowest setting or so (1/64). This makes the flash fire a very brief burst of light, which freezes the action better. Set the camera to Av mode and select a medium F-stop value (5.0 or so). A higher F-stop will make the depth of focus bigger, and help keep subjects in focus.

Setup: The setup does NOT have to be glamorous (see image). Use a tripd to align your camera close to your subject, preferably keeping the subject parallel to the lens so that everything is in focus. You need to be close because the flash power is reduced. You can handhold the camera, but focusing can be difficult. Next, focus on your subject. If you are doing water drops the easiest way to do it is to turn the water up to a small stream (about the diameter of the drops you want) and focus on that. If you can’t do that then manually focus until the drops seem to twinkle a bit. Take a few test shots and make sure that the focus and lighting is okay. To adjust the brightness of the image, just increase of reduce the F-stop, or increase the ISO value (keep it below 800 to keep noise low).

Drops and Splash

When your test shots look crisp, focused, and the correct brightness, it’s time to compose the colors. Use colored items, anything non-reflective, a foot or so behind your subject. They should blur out because of the limited depth of field. Also, for water drops, add colored objects to the sides of the frame, they will show up in the water reflections. The image on the right shows my blue background (shopping bag) and out of shot colored object (red hat).

Now you’re ready to start shooting. It can be hard to time things correctly, so the best bet is to shoot rapid fire style. 50% of the shots will have nothing in them, but you can just delete them later. Keep shooting, changing the colored objects and composition of the shot. Take a bunch of shots and then download them and see them on your screen. This will let you know if the subject is really in focus and if you need to increase your depth of focus or reduce your ISO.

setup

When you are taking macro shots like this, little things can make a big difference. For example the two shots on the right were taken under identical conditions and settings, but i added a yellow post-it note to the back of the glass to change the water color for the second one. The images below only differ in their backgrounds. I held the burst mode down as i passed different objects behind the subject.
Background:Post-it Note Background: Dish Detergent Background:Post-it Note Background:Post-it Note

Lastly, although the background is generally blurred by the shallow depth of focus, water drops can bring the background into focus. Placing interesting background objects and focusing correctly will allow some neat effects. See the globe effect in the image on the right.

Drops and Splash Drops and Splash Drops and Splash

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